I returned home after making an unsuccessful attempt to reach Sri Amarnathji. This was during the first week of July this year. No doubt I was heartbroken, but at the same time
my determination was strengthened all the more.
I disclosed my plan of visiting again Sri Amarnathji only a day in advance, boarded the night bus from Delhi to Jammu on 19th July leaving all my family members thunderstruck. In fact, I informed 2 of my close relatives over the telephone once the bus started !
20th July : Reached Jammu at 10 am. Late by 2 hrs due to heavy rains. Got into a Tata Sumo for Pahalgam. Two co-passengers from Kolkata. After much dilly-dally and unnecessary wait for more passengers, we ultimately started at 12.30pm.
Hot weather. Good roads, but deserted. We are told that we should have stared early in the morning to reach Pahalgam on time. One of the co-passengers, Sudip has visited Amarnathji thrice earlier, whereas the other person is a first timer, like me. Little frown on their faces when told that I am also a first timer and have come alone. I am determined to not let the frowns dampen my spirit. After a brief stop over for 15 mins, we reached Batot at 5pm. Securitymen detained around 40 cabs heading to Pahalgam stating that terrorists pelt stones at the pilgrims to disrupt the yatra. We were stranded for an hour and then released with a warning that we have to make a night halt at Ramban. As expected, the security checks at Ramban were more stringent. People who could prove themselves to be locals by their disposition, language and identity cards were allowed to proceed. No way we could have passed these tests.
Instead of wasting time in arguing with the security personnel, we decided to find a place for our night stay. But there were other people who were more prompt than us. We were denied at the first hotel – no room. Next hotel. Small, dark staircase. Dingy place. Only one room available with three cots. We lapped it up, as if we hit a jackpot, and brushed aside smaller issues like power cuts, dirty beds and non-working door locks. The only point of concern -just one toilet for all the 32 guests !!
Alarms were set for 3.30am. Next morning we were up and ready much before others were awake.
21st July : The checkpost was opened sharp at 8.30am and we resumed our journey. We reached a place called ‘Shaitani Nala’ at 10am and were again stopped by the security. We were asked to wait for 2 hours, by that time they will receive the ‘All Clear’ signal from the next post. In the mean time we can have our breakfast at any of the free ‘Langars’. It was my first encounter with the ‘Langar Services’ during the yatra. Many religious organizations and BSF were serving drinking water, tea and variety of food items free of cost. And more importantly, this was being done with utmost humility and dedication. Really a commendable job.
We again resumed at 12 noon, crossed the 2.6 kms long Jawahar Tunnel and reached Pahalgam at 3.30pm. On the way, we passed through curfew hit Anantnag. Shops were closed, deserted roads and military on guard on both sides of the road at an interval of 50 feet. Everything was dead quiet and the silence was broken only by the sound of moving cars.
Deserted roads of Pahalgam
To our utter dismay, we were told that it has been raining in Sheshnag, hence the yatra has been stopped. We need to spend the night at Pahalgam, and if rain stops then we can proceed to Chandanwari check post next morning.
Panoramic view from Pahalgam
Pahalgam is a small, quiet and very beautiful town with blooming flowers and greenery all around. The Lidder river flows by its side between the boulders with full gusto. During the day, if the sky is clear, snow peak mountains can be seen from here.
While we were having tea and discussing where to find a place of stay, the tea stall owner said that he also provided lodging arrangement to yatris at nominal costs. As we were tired due to a long journey, we did not let go this chance.
A young boy of around 12 years led us. It was a muslim house just behind a mosque. The entrance was through a narrow path filled with cowdung, horsedung and rain water. My heart skipped a beat ( may be more) ! The lady of the house greeted us with a broad smile and said something in Kashmiri language which none of us understood. We kept our luggage and said that we would be back in an hour from the market after our supper.
We thought that since it was a matter of one night only, we would somehow manage. Somebody was surely laughing behind us…….
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