Takin-National animal of Bhutan
We were ready for the day after a sumptuous breakfast. First we went to see the Takin Preserve. Takin is the national animal of Bhutan and is usually found at the altitude of 13,000 ft. It has the face of a goat and the body of a yak. In the Preserve, a group of Takins is kept along with deer in an enclosure. It is here that we saw the Stone Bath for the first time. Water is initially stored in a wooden bath tub. Boulders are heated by the firewood and then dropped in the tub to make the water warm enough to take bath. It is very effective to relieve bodyache and contains ample medicinal value. It is one of the many ways by which Bhutanese people remain close to nature and derive the necessary energy for sustenance.
Stone Bath
This is where we also learnt that Bhutan is a no smoking country. We were startled to learn this resolve but soon noticed its effect on the healthy bodies and cheerful faces all around us.
Our next stop was National Textile Museum. It is a place to see the art of traditional weaving being kept alive and preserved through exhibition and has a good collection of old textiles which are rich in colors and designs. A small documentary wonderfully portrays the evolution of costumes over the years in this country, of both the royal and the common people. It even beautifully demonstrates how to wear a Kho (men’s dress) and a Kira (women’s dress).
Kho is a type of gown covering the male body from neck to ankle, which may be folded at the waist to make it knee length and tightened with a flap. A long pair of socks touching the knee is worn beneath it with either black or brown shoes. At the wrist, the broad sleeves are neatly folded which expose the white inner lining.
Kho and Kira
Women wrap the Kira around their waists, almost like our saris except the pleats, cover the upper body and fix the loose end over the shoulder with a brooch. A waist length jacket is worn on top of it. A pair of covered shoes or sandals is a must.
Both, Kho and Kira cover the whole body from neck to foot and the Bhutanese people take extreme pride in wearing them. Almost everybody wears the national dress in Bhutan. People drive two wheelers and climb stairs with utmost ease wearing Kho and Kira. Children going to school in their Kho or Kira was a wonderful sight for us.
The roads of Bhutan are worth mentioning. Since transport within the country is by road only, good care is taken to build and maintain them. And all that is done by Indian laborers ! Roads here are broad, immaculately clean, with traffic flowing in orderly streams with no traffic police. People are extremely law abiding. Once we drove half a kilometre just to take a u-turn. Even though nobody was watching, our driver would not break the rule.
Our next stop was The National Institute of Traditional Medicine, where medicinal herbs are compounded and dispensed, and traditional medical practitioners trained. The aroma of various medicinal plants distinguishes the place. It also has a hospital of its own.
From there, we were transported into the era of ancient Bhutanese civilization. While standing in the courtyard of a rural building of bygone days inside the Folk Heritage Museum, we tried to visualize the rural life. The four storeyed wooden house had a horse stable, cow shed, barn, kitchen, living room, bed room and an altar. The grain containers and water vessels of different sizes were made up of animal skin. Hollow bamboo stems and horns were used to drink water and wine. A primitive noodle maker is also carefully preserved. Various types of hunting and musical instruments are also present. Dress made of yak skin is also kept here. We noticed a cap made of yak skin with 5 braids hanging loosely from its rim. During rains, the water would drip along with these braids and not enter inside. An amazing piece of art.
Water turbine operated Grinding Wheel
There were two more artefacts worth noticing. A water stream has been diverted strategically to rotate the mill stone of a grinding wheel. Also a natural flow of water is used to constantly rotate the prayer wheel. It was awesome to note how intelligently the natural forces were tapped and used for day to day living.
We had Bhutanese cuisine for lunch, which started with butter tea and chilly cheese as an important dish. After lunch we drove to Dochula Pass. It is at an altitude of 3000 mts and is used to connect Northern Bhutan with South-Western Bhutan. A special permit is required to visit Dochula Pass. On the way we crossed a 168 ft high spectacular golden Buddha statue, sitting in a meditative posture.
Dochula Pass is situated on a hilltop with 108 beautiful stupas. It is a very quiet place with a breathtaking natural surrounding. Very often monks can be seen circumambulating the stupas with rosaries in hands. Since it was cloudy and drizzling, we could not see the Himalayan range which is otherwise clearly visible from here.
Dochula Pass
On our way back we visited Tashichhoe Dzong, a fortress of the glorious religion. It was built in 1641 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel and was reconstructed into present structure by the late King, His majesty Jigme Dorji Wangchuck in the year 1962-1969. It houses the secretariat building, the throne room and the office of the king, and the central monk body. The king and the monastic head are extended the same respect, and both wear yellow color scarves. Similarly, the ministers and senior monks wear deep maroon scarves. Government officials and general monks wear red scarves. Common citizen wear white scarves.
Tashichhoe Dzong-Thimpu
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