Our Guide and Driver

Time to return home. After breakfast, Kinley and Jumbo saw us off at the border gate from where we had started our journey.

We bade goodbye to them and decided to cherish the memory of this

Carriage with the passengers

spotlessly clean country and its cheerful, friendly people for many years to come.

After a 4 day trip to the Land of Buddha, we returned with a rejuvenated body, mind and soul.

Goodbye at Bordergate

Idyllic Paro market

After lunch, we lazed around in the clean and empty streets. Paro market has many curio shops and is a good place for shopping. After we were done with, we drove to Phuntsholing to spend our last night in this Himalayan country.

Tiger's Nest - a panoramic view

Once we were in Paro we headed for Taktsang Monastery, also known as ‘Tiger’s Nest’ at an altitude of 3000 mts. The climb up to the viewpoint which is almost half way will take around 3 hours and from there a spectacular view of the monastery can be seen clinging to the side of the cliff. From there, a steep climb upto the hilltop, then deep into the gorge, and then to the next hilltop comprising of 700 steps will finally lead to the monastery, which will take about 1 hour. It is said that in the 8th century Guru Rinpoche flew on the back of a tigress from eastern Bhutan to this place and meditated in a cave here for 3 months. There have been shrines at this sacred place for many

Weary trekkers to Tiger's Nest

centuries. The principal Lhakhang (monastery) of the present monastic complex dates from 1692. Taktsang was damaged severely by fire in 1998 but has now been fully restored to its former beauty. Ponies are available for ride. For those who want to climb on foot, it is advisable to take hiking sticks available at the foothill. The monastery timings are Apr-Oct 8am to 6pm, Nov-Mar 8am to 5pm. 1pm to 2pm is the lunch time. Halfway down the hill, there is a cafeteria where we had our lunch.

Indispensable Trekking Stick

On the way back, we visited Kichu temple, one of the 108 temples built in the 7th century by the Tibetan King Songsten Gampo. The story goes that a giant demon lay across the whole area of Tibet and the Himalayas and was preventing the spread of Buddhism. To overcome her, King Songtsen Gampo decided to build 108 temples, which

Kichu Temple

would be placed on all the points of her body. Of these 108 temples, 12 were built in accordance with precise plans. Thus, it happened that in about the year AD 638 the temple of Jokhang in Lhasa was built over the very heart of the demon.

After a long and tiring day, we checked into our resort and refreshed ourselves with a cup of hot coffee.

Ugyen Resort-Paro

The resort was only 20 minutes drive from Paro airport ( the only one in Bhutan) and our room had a panoramic view of Tiger’s Nest and Mt Jomolhari – the highest mountain peak of Bhutan. The other speciality of this resort is that the whole show is managed by a group of young and dynamic girls moving around with broad smiles in their bright colored Kira. The overall structure of the resort is designed to provide a distinctive Bhutanese life style with an impeccable ambience of peace, spelling the very essence of Gross National Happiness.

Togetherness

Takin-National animal of Bhutan

We were ready for the day after a sumptuous breakfast. First we went to see the Takin Preserve. Takin is the national animal of Bhutan and is usually found at the altitude of 13,000 ft. It has the face of a goat and the body of a yak. In the Preserve, a group of Takins is kept along with deer in an enclosure. It is here that we saw the Stone Bath for the first time. Water is initially stored in a wooden bath tub. Boulders are heated by the firewood and then dropped in the tub to make the water warm enough to take bath. It is very effective to relieve bodyache and contains ample medicinal value. It is one of the many ways by which Bhutanese people remain close to nature and derive the necessary energy for sustenance.

Stone Bath

This is where we also learnt that Bhutan is a no smoking country. We were startled to learn this resolve but soon noticed its effect on the healthy bodies and cheerful faces all around us.

Our next stop was National Textile Museum. It is a place to see the art of traditional weaving being kept alive and preserved through exhibition and has a good collection of old textiles which are rich in colors and designs. A small documentary wonderfully portrays the evolution of costumes over the years in this country, of both the royal and the common people. It even beautifully demonstrates how to wear a Kho (men’s dress) and a Kira (women’s dress).

Kho is a type of gown covering the male body from neck to ankle, which may be folded at the waist to make it knee length and tightened with a flap. A long pair of socks touching the knee  is worn beneath it with either black or brown shoes. At the wrist, the broad sleeves are neatly folded  which expose the white inner lining.

Kho and Kira

Women wrap the Kira around their waists, almost like our saris except the pleats, cover the upper body and fix the loose end over the shoulder with a brooch. A waist length jacket is worn on top of it. A pair of covered shoes or sandals is a must.

Both, Kho and Kira cover the whole body from neck to foot and the Bhutanese people take extreme pride in wearing them. Almost everybody wears the national dress in Bhutan. People drive two wheelers and climb stairs with utmost ease wearing  Kho and Kira. Children going to school in their Kho or Kira was a wonderful sight for us.

The roads of Bhutan are worth mentioning.  Since transport within the country is by road only, good care is taken to build and maintain them.  And all that is done by Indian laborers ! Roads here are broad, immaculately clean, with traffic flowing in orderly streams with no traffic police. People  are extremely law abiding. Once we drove half a kilometre just to take a u-turn.  Even though nobody was watching, our driver would not break the rule.

Our next stop was The National Institute of Traditional Medicine, where medicinal herbs are compounded and dispensed, and traditional medical practitioners trained. The aroma of various medicinal plants distinguishes the place. It also has a hospital of its own.

From there, we were transported into the era of ancient Bhutanese civilization. While standing in the courtyard of a rural building of bygone days inside the Folk Heritage Museum, we tried to visualize the rural life. The four storeyed wooden house had a horse stable, cow shed,  barn, kitchen, living room, bed room and an altar. The grain containers and water vessels of different sizes were made up of animal skin. Hollow bamboo stems and horns were used to drink water and wine. A primitive noodle maker is also carefully preserved. Various types of hunting and musical instruments are also present. Dress made of yak skin is also kept here. We noticed a cap made of yak skin with 5 braids hanging loosely from its rim. During rains, the water would drip along with these braids and not enter inside. An amazing piece of art.

Water turbine operated Grinding Wheel

There were two more artefacts worth noticing. A water stream has been diverted strategically to rotate the mill stone of a grinding wheel. Also a natural flow of water is used to constantly rotate the prayer wheel. It was awesome to note how intelligently the natural forces were tapped and used for day to day living.

We had Bhutanese cuisine for lunch, which started with butter tea and chilly cheese as an important dish. After lunch we drove to Dochula Pass. It is at an altitude of 3000 mts and is used to connect Northern Bhutan with South-Western Bhutan. A special permit is required to visit Dochula Pass. On the way we crossed a 168 ft high spectacular golden Buddha statue, sitting in a meditative posture.

Dochula Pass is situated on a hilltop with 108 beautiful stupas. It is a very quiet place with a breathtaking natural surrounding. Very often monks can be seen circumambulating the stupas with rosaries in hands. Since it was cloudy and drizzling, we could not see the Himalayan range which is otherwise clearly visible from here.

Dochula Pass

On our way back we visited Tashichhoe Dzong, a fortress of the glorious religion. It was built in 1641 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel and was reconstructed into present structure by the late King, His majesty Jigme Dorji Wangchuck in the year 1962-1969. It houses the secretariat building, the throne room and the office of the king, and the central monk body. The king and the monastic head are extended the same respect, and both wear yellow color scarves. Similarly, the ministers and senior monks wear deep maroon scarves. Government officials and general monks wear red scarves. Common citizen wear white scarves.

Tashichhoe Dzong-Thimpu

Indo-Bhutan bordergate

It was around 11 am and we were standing at Jaigaon- the Indian side of the Indo-Bhutanese border, waiting for our Bhutanese host. Soon a cherry colored, gleaming Hyundai Tucson stopped in front of us and from it alighted Kinley and Jumbo in their national dress, Kho , smiling ear to ear. They would be our host cum guide for the next 5 days in Bhutan.

We entered the Himalayan country through Phuntsholing at South Bhutan only to be floored by its quietness, cleanliness and pristine natural beauty. After the Entry permit was prepared, we had a quick lunch, as we were too eager to hit the road. Jumbo proved his mettle on the wheels as we drove to Thimpu- the capital town of Bhutan. The 176 Kms journey was spectacular with innumerable windings on the hill. We were to attain an altitude of 6500 ft- which we did by noticing the gradual change of temperature, flora and fauna. On the way we crossed the gushing Toorsa river and the Chukha Dam. The Royal University of Bhutan at Gedu, near Chukha majestically proclaims the Indo Bhutan joint venture.

Royal Univ of Bhutan

After passing through Chapcha the road reaches its highest point of about 2,800m/9,185ft, then descends steeply and runs along the banks of the Wang Chu (river) to Chuzom (meaning confluence), where the Paro Chu runs into the Wang Chu. From here it is only about 2 hours’ drive up the valley to Thimphu.

After a 7 hrs drive we reached Thimpu, the capital town, bedecked in evening light with the setting sun in the background. We straightway checked into our hotel. We were told that next day we have to leave quite early.

Phuntsho Pelri Hotel-Thimpu

I vividly remember the only time he wrote to me was when I was in the hostel . My mother used to send me postcards on a regular basis. Access to telephone wasn’t that easy in those days. The joy of finding a postcard slid from below the door of my room when I returned from my classes was more than winning a jackpot.

But my father never wrote to me. Except for once.

To my utter surprise once I found one sentence written by him in the empty corner of my mother’s postcard. I am sure he must have written that on his way to post the letter. I read it over and over again with moist eyes  and a lump in my throat.

It read- ‘if you need money, do let me know’.  That one sentence meant so much for me. All his love and affection was put in that single sentence.

I want to tell him, “No, I don’t need any money. You know very well what I need from you…………..”

As a token of utmost regard and respect to my father on Father’s Day,  who passed away untimely on 11^th July 1994.

For years together I have been nurturing my dream of stepping into the Writer’s world but somehow could not muster enough courage to take the plunge. Ultimately, on Apr 1st last year I made it- ofcourse not to fool myself or the world.

The year gone by has generated mixed experience for me. Now I do not have a 9 to 6 schedule to adhere to, commute 4 hours daily nor careful movements to save myself from office politics.

Now I have peace of mind, good night sleep and lots of time with me. I am preparing myself for a fresh start. But my greatest achievement is that I have been able to spend more time with my little princess now, and watch her grow up. Nothing can surpass that joy.

I wish I had taken this step sometime ago.

I disclosed my plan of visiting again Sri Amarnathji only a day in advance, boarded the night bus from Delhi to Jammu on 19th July leaving all my family members thunderstruck. In fact, I informed 2 of my close relatives over the telephone once the bus started !

20th July : Reached Jammu at 10 am. Late by 2 hrs due to heavy rains. Got into a Tata Sumo for Pahalgam. Two co-passengers from Kolkata. After much dilly-dally and unnecessary wait for more passengers, we ultimately started at 12.30pm.

Hot weather. Good roads, but deserted. We are told that we should have stared early in the morning to reach Pahalgam on time. One of the co-passengers, Sudip has visited Amarnathji thrice earlier, whereas the other person is a first timer, like me. Little frown on their faces when told that I am also a first timer and have come alone. I am determined to not let the frowns dampen my spirit. After a brief stop over for 15 mins, we reached Batot at 5pm. Securitymen detained around 40 cabs heading to Pahalgam stating that terrorists pelt stones at the pilgrims to disrupt the yatra. We were stranded for an hour and then released with a warning that we have to make a night halt at Ramban. As expected, the security checks at Ramban were more stringent. People who could prove themselves to be locals by their disposition, language and identity cards were allowed to proceed. No way we could have passed these tests.

Instead of wasting time in arguing with the security personnel, we decided to find a place for our night stay. But there were other people who were more prompt than us. We were denied at the first hotel – no room. Next hotel. Small, dark staircase. Dingy place. Only one room available with three cots. We lapped it up, as if we hit a jackpot, and brushed aside smaller issues like power cuts, dirty beds and non-working door locks. The only point of concern -just one toilet for all the 32 guests !!

Alarms were set for 3.30am. Next morning we were up and ready much before others were awake.

21st July : The checkpost was opened sharp at 8.30am and we resumed our journey. We reached a place called ‘Shaitani Nala’ at 10am and were again stopped by the security. We were asked to wait for 2 hours, by that time they will receive the ‘All Clear’ signal from the next post. In the mean time we can have our breakfast at any of the free ‘Langars’. It was my first encounter with the ‘Langar Services’ during the yatra. Many religious organizations and BSF were serving drinking water, tea and variety of food items free of cost. And more importantly, this was being done with utmost humility and dedication. Really a commendable job.

We again resumed at 12 noon, crossed the 2.6 kms long Jawahar Tunnel and reached Pahalgam at 3.30pm. On the way, we passed through curfew hit Anantnag. Shops were closed, deserted roads and military on guard on both sides of the road at an interval of 50 feet. Everything was dead quiet and the silence was broken only by the sound of moving cars.

Deserted roads of Pahalgam

 To our utter dismay, we were told that it has been raining in Sheshnag, hence the yatra has been stopped. We need to spend the night at Pahalgam, and if rain stops then we can proceed to Chandanwari check post next morning.

Panoramic view from Pahalgam

Pahalgam is a small, quiet and very beautiful town with blooming flowers and greenery all around. The Lidder river flows by its side between the boulders with full gusto. During the day, if the sky is clear, snow peak mountains can be seen from here.

While we were having tea and discussing where to find a place of stay, the tea stall owner said that he also provided lodging arrangement to yatris at nominal costs. As we were tired due to a long journey, we did not let go this chance.

A young boy of around 12 years led us. It was a muslim house just behind a mosque. The entrance was through a narrow path filled with cowdung, horsedung and rain water. My heart skipped a beat ( may be more) ! The lady of the house greeted us with a broad smile and said something in Kashmiri language which none of us understood. We kept our luggage and said that we would be back in an hour from the market after our supper.

We thought that since it was a matter of one night only, we would somehow manage. Somebody was surely laughing behind us…….

Hot tears

You only know

Are still flowing down

My eyes- unseen by others.

Striving to hear your words

Unspoken, while you were around.

Now.

Do I happen to see you

Ever again ?

Reply awaited.

To my beloved father who passed away on 11^th July, 1994. The first alphabet of all the lines together comprise his name.

After the darshan, many pilgrims choose to stay overnight at hotels/dormitories at the hilltop and return next day. I didn’t have a choice as I had a train to catch the next day for Delhi.

The downhill journey was simply awesome. The pathway was appropriately lit. It was 11pm -the pilgrims were continuously coming up with ‘Jai Mata Di’ on their lips. Around midnight, I was resting on a bench and when I looked up, I was simply dumbstruck by what I saw. Against the dark background of the hill, the string of electric lights of the temple seemed like a white garland around the neck of a sage !

A middle aged man came up panting and sat beside me. After catching his breath and seeing my cool disposition, he asked me whether I was going up or down the hill. The question was so very apt for our spiritual life too. Just by looking at the face, it is hard to determine whether a person is going upwards in his spiritual path. Religion is a matter of realization. I replied accordingly. And it turned out that he along with his family members had started the journey at the same time as I did. I mentioned that light body and lone walking were my two major advantages.

 I was noticing the lightning  in the sky for some time. Now it started raining. Soon the pathway, railings and leaves were all glistening. I was listening to the rain drops falling on the tin shed above. Everybody was willing to make space for others under the shed. The rain was like blessings of Mata on me L

 It was 2.30am of 2^nd July when I reached Katra. I looked up the hill, paid my final homage to the goddess and got into the bus for Jammu.

 I had started for Sri Amarnathji with no intention of visiting Vaishno Devi. But the Lord had planned something else for me.

It was indeed a twist !